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A
Abalone
Also called Mother Of Pearl. Made from the inside of the seashell.
AB
Short for Aurora Borealis
Alpaca
Sometimes spelled Alpacca is an alloy metal consisting of approx 60%
copper, 20% nickel, 20% zinc, and 5% tin
Amulet
An amulet is a pendant or charm worn for its protective magic powers
Art Deco
Art Deco was popular from the 1925-1939. The art deco style was characterized
by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors, molded or faceted
Czech glass beads, plastics such as celluloid and bakelite. This era
began to use
colored stones more. Jade, onyx and sometimes coral was set in geometric
shapes. The art deco period began with very light designs but as the
period progressed designs become bolder and more blocky.
Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau was popular from 1895 until World War I. Art Nouveau style
was characterized by curves and naturalistic designs. It was especially
focused on depicting long - haired, sensual women, flower styles, sensual
curves,
and naturalistic.
Arts and Crafts
The Arts and Crafts movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion
against the mass - produced, machine made that were common in the late
Victorian era. The designers felt that their work should look handmade,
so jewelry
of this era will often have tiny hammer marks on it. Gold was used
but silver was more common because it was used to emphasize the craftsmanship
of the
piece rather than the value of the metal. Cabochon stones such as moonstone,
mother or pearl, agate, amber were quite popular.
Aurora Borealis
Faceted glass beads that have an added iridescent coating are called
aurora borealis. The coating is used on beads and rhinestones and produces
a multi color light reflection. The Aurora borealis means northern
lights. The iridescent surface occurs when a very thin layer of metallic
atoms are
deposited on the lower surface of the stone. The process was invented
by the Swarovski Co & Christian Dior in 1955.
Amethyst
According to Greek mythology, the god Dionysus, master of revelry
and drunkenness, created amethyst as he wept over the statue of a
fair maiden.
According to legend, Dionysus was in a terrible mood and vowed to
have his vicious tigers attack the next mortal who crossed his path.
As fate would
have it, a fair maiden by the name of Amethyst was strolling in the
wood. As the tigers rushed forward to attack the maiden, the chaste
goddess Artemis
took pity on the lady and transformed her into a figure of pure quartz.
Dionysus, mortified by his actions, wept over Amethyst, turning the
crystal to the
color of deep wine, creating the first amethyst. For the Greeks,
this crystal would come to serve as a protection against intoxication.
The word amethustos
means not drunken, and the Greeks would carve goblets and vessels
from the stone to prevent inebriety. Like a beautiful wine, prized
amethyst is the
color of deep purple, but can be found in shades of light lavender, violet,
and lilac. The stone has been used by cultures for centuries, most
notably by the Greeks and people of Central and South America, who
used it to carve one of the legendary crystal skulls. The skull
supposedly has mystical powers, most likely due to the chemical principals
of the crystal. Amethyst is a form of quartz, composed of silicon
dioxide, iron, and aluminum. Like all quartz, it is piezoelectric,
creating an electric
charge when rubbed or heated. Although its mystic qualities may be
hocus pocus, this wine colored stone is certainly enchanting.
Aquamarine- March
Gazing into the swirling depths of this stone, men caught glimpses
of the future, eternal youth, and eternal happiness. With a name whose
Latin meaning is sea water, the aquamarine reflects the most delicate tones
of the most soothing sea. Yet despite its delicate appearance, it is plenty
tough, with a score of 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs Scale. A variation of beryl,
which is the same mineral that makes up emerald, aquamarine, or beryllium
aluminum silicate, has been valued throughout the ages. It was known to
the ancients as the sailor’s gem, a gift from the sea, and would protect
those who set sail on the treacherous oceans. The Romans believed that
an aquamarine engraved with a frog would allow the owner to make peace
with his enemies. The stone reached enormous popularity in the 1300’s,
not because of its remarkable beauty, but because of its rumored ability
to act as an antidote to any poison. Although this tradition faded away,
aquamarines still evoke images of ancient seas and eternal love.
Atomic Movement
Watches with atomic movements are the most accurate timekeepers in
the world. Each watch synchronizes with the National Institute of Science
and Technology’s atomic clock several times daily via radio signal. As
a result, the watch will only lose a second once in every one million years.
It adjusts automatically to time zones, leap years, and daylight savings
time. Most atomic watches use quartz movements to keep time between synchronizations.
Automatic Movement
Automatic watches operate using the same principal as mechanical watches.
The chief difference is that one does not need to wind an automatic watch;
the motion of the wearer’s arm ensures that the spring is wound. The watch
contains a semicircular rotor attached to a ratcheted winding mechanism
that swings back and forth as the watch moves. As a result, the watch never
needs a battery. Self-winding mechanisms were invented in 1770 when days
Abraham-Louis Perrelet created a movement for pocket watches. When wristwatches
became popular after World War I, John Harwood created a bumper watch.
This watch included a rotor that did not rotate fully, but bumped back
and forth to create the necessary ratcheting motion. With the perfection
of the mechanism, today’s automatic watches will run for two days with
a fully wound spring. The watch may need to be occasionally reset to maintain
accuracy, or one can purchase a watch winder that will keep the watch’s
spring wound when not being worn.
Alexandrite
On April 17, 1834, Tsar Alexander II came of age and became the ruler
of Russia. On that same day in an emerald mine in the Urals, a miraculous
stone was discovered. The green stone was originally thought to be an emerald,
until it was illuminated under incandescent light and turned a deep shade
of red. The new stone was called alexandrite after the new tsar. Alexandrite
became the nation stone of tsarist Russia, whose colors were red and green,
and was very popular in jewelry stores in St. Petersburg and Moscow. The
gem did not become popular in America until Tiffany’s master gemologist
George Kunz released a collection of jewelry using the stone. Alexandrite
is composed of chrysoberyl containing chromium, which gives the gem its
ability to change color. With a hardness of 8.5 on the Mohs scale, it is
ideal for jewelry. It is quite a rare gem and a wonderful addition to any
gem lover’s collection.
Bakelite
Bakelite was patented in 1909 and is also called catalin. It is a synthetic
material which was extensively used in jewelry during the 1930s Depression.
It can be molded or carved and multi colors can be inlaid together. It has
a distinct scent when rubbed to warm, somewhat like formaldehyde
Baguette
A gemstone cut in a narrow rectangular shape. Small diamonds are
sometimes cut this way to use as accents
Baroque
An irregular, rounded stone, glass or bead. Imitation pearls with
an uneven shape are also referred to as baroque.
Base metal, pot metal, white metal
Any combination of alloys of non - precious metals.
Bezel Setting
The way of setting a stone in which the stone is held in place
by a narrow band of metal around the outer edge of the stone.
Birthstone
Birthstones have their roots in ancient astrology, and there
have been many birthstone lists used over the years. This
is one of the more common
lists. January – Garnet; February – Amethyst; March – Aquamarine;
April – Diamond; May – Emerald; June – Pearl or Moonstone;
July – Ruby; August –
Peridot; September – Sapphire; October – Opal; November –
Citrine or Topaz; December – Turquoise or Zircon
Bookchain
A Victorian chain of which the links are rectangular folded
pieces of metal, made in gold, gold fill, and sterling
silver. Book chains often had large locket attached and they were usually
elaborately
engraved.
Brass
An alloy of copper and zinc which has a nice yellow color.
Britannia or pewter
A somewhat dull silver - colored alloy of tin, antimony,
and copper.
Blue Topaz
Al2(SiO4)F1.1(OH)0.9
Never has a stone suffered from such confusion as topaz. The name itself is a mystery. Some concede that the name came from the Indian Sanskrit tapas, meaning fire. Others believe the word is of Greek origin, coming from the name of the island Topazo where peridot was mined. Another possible origin is the Greek topazos which means shine. Whatever origin is correct, they all evoke beautiful images of this stunning gem. A silicate mineral of fluorine and aluminum, it comes in many colors, perhaps the most alluring to be blue. Blue topaz has three variants, Sky, Swiss, and London Topaz, ranging from the faintest azure to darkest navy. All forms are quite hard with a Mohs score of eight, and have been thought to possess mystical powers which could protect, heal, or enlighten the wearer.
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Cabochon
A stone with a rounded surface, rather than with facets. Most often
seen with opal, moonstone, jade, turquoise, and faux gems.
Carat
Abbreviated "ct." and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for gemstones. A.15 carat stone can be called either
5 points, or 1/5 of a carat. The relationship of weight and size is different
for each family of stones.
Cameo
A style of carving in which the design motif is left and the surrounding
surface is cut away leaving the design in relief. Often made of shell,
hard stone, glass, and more recently plastics
Cast
Made by a centrifugal method of casting metal which becomes thick and
hard.
Celluloid
Celluloid is derived from cellulose which is a natural plant fiber.
It was first synthesized around 1870. Celluloid items for were often
set with pave rhinestones. Celluloid is flammable and it does deteriorate
quickly
if exposed to moisture.
CFW
Abbreviation for cultured freshwater pearls
Channel Set
A gem setting technique in which a number of square or rectangular
stones are set side by side in a grooved channel. The stones are not
secured individually, so there is no metal visible between the stones.
Used mostly
on round or baguette
Chatelaine
A chatelaine is a set of implements worn at the waist which then carries
various items such as needle cases, pencil, scissors, dangling from
chains attached to it.
Chaton Setting
It is a setting in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around
a metal ring.
Claw Setting
A claw setting is one in which a series of metal prongs called claws
holds a stone securely in a setting. The claw settings used today date
back to the 1800's
Cloisonné
Cloisonné is a method of applying enamel to metal in which the design
is first outlined on the metal surface using a metal wire. The space
between the wires is filled with enamel and then fired to a glassy
sheen
Closed Setting
The back of the stone is not exposed, meaning the metal is not cut
away behind the stone
Cluster Setting
Small stones set clustered around a larger center stone
Coin Silver
A silver colored metal that is a mixture of 80% silver and 20% copper.
A lot of European silver pieces are coin silver and are marked 800.
Coral
Coral comes in colors ranging from vivid orange to palest pink. During
the mid - Victorian large brooches of coral finely carved in high -
relief florals or faces were very popular.
Crimp Bead
Small, soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure loops of
threading material fasteners onto clasps.
Crystal
A glass stone or bead, usually with high lead content.
CTW
Carat Total Weight
Cubic Zirconium
Also known as Cubic zirconia or CZ is a lab produced gemstone that
resembles a diamond.
Citrine
Citrine reflects nature’s sweetest and sunniest shades. Its tones capture every color of the sun, from the soft, pale sunrise, to a midday gleam, to a fiery sunset. The gem’s name comes from the French citron, meaning lemon, and the stone certainly captures this citrusy flavor. As sweet and lovely as honey, citrine has been prized as a healing stone which evokes joy and jubilation. This stone makes the perfect gift for the sunshine in your life.
Cultured Pearl vs. Natural Pearls
Culture pearls are identical to natural pearls in physical composition
and appearance. The only difference between the two types is that a natural
pearl forms when a particle enters the mollusk by chance, and a cultured
pearl forms when the particle is placed in the shell by man. Cultured
pearls are
not imitation pearls because they are made of nacre. One can distinguish
a true pearl from an imitation by rubbing the object against one’s teeth.
Pearls feel gritty, whereas imitations will be smooth. Due to the rarity and
price
of natural pearls, the majority of pearls on the market these days are
cultured. The modern process of culturing was created by three Japanese
men
in the early
1900’s. Tokichi Nishikawa and Tatsuhei Mise simultaneously discovered
the method of inserting a particle into the shell, but it was Kokichi
Mikimoto who truly
founded the industry by focusing on creating truly round pearls. The
industry has spread to many nations, including China and Australia and
now includes
freshwater as well as saltwater pearls.
Chrysoprase
Also known as Australian Jade or the Victory Stone, chrysoprase is
an apple green variety of chalcedony that contains nickel. According to
legend, Alexander the Great wore a chrysoprase into every battle, which
was the key to his incredible military conquests. The young commander,
who was undefeated on the battlefield, was only overcome by death after
a snake bit the stone and it was lost in a river. With a hardness of 7
on the Mohs scale, chrysoprase is great for jewelry. Perhaps it will lead
to some conquests of your own.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a watch that includes a stopwatch. The stopwatch is
usually operated by buttons on the side of the watch that start, stop,
and reset the timer.
Ceramic watch
With the advent of new technology, researchers have been able to create
highly durable, scratch-resistant, remarkably light ceramics that are perfect
for watches. These new ceramics are strong enough to be used in bulletproof
body armor. The ceramic can be formed into thin, smooth pieces that are
both light and comfortable for the wearer.
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Dead Stone
A foil - backed rhinestone that has lost its original shininess, usually
after water has damaged the foil.
Demi Parure
A matching set of jewelry consisting of two pieces - a necklace and
earrings, a pin and earrings.
Diamante
A Faceted, glittery glass bead; rhinestone.
Dog Collar
A wide choker necklace worn tight around the neck above the collarbone
just like a dog's collar. Very popular in Edwardian times
Doublet
A form of gemstone trickery that was devised to allow inexpensive
materials to imitate the more valuable gemstones before modern
synthetics were
available.
Duette
A combination of two clips on a pin back. Duette was a registered
design by Coro, but is now used generically for this design.
DiamondAura® is a laboratory created substitute for a naturally mined diamond.
The physical characteristics of DiamondAura®, such as a hardness of 8.5 on
the Moh’s Scale, a dispersion (fire) of .066 that exceeds a diamond, and
a high refractive index (brilliance) of 2.176, establishes it as true “perfection
from the laboratory”. And like a mined diamond, DiamondAura® will also cut
glass. It is a beautiful diamond simulation that is durable, inexpensive
and visually indistinguishable from a mined diamond except by an experienced
technician utilizing the proper equipment.
Technically, DiamondAura® is an oxide of the metallic element zirconium
and the finished simulated diamond is approximately 87.5% zirconium oxide
and 12.5% yttrium oxide. To produce DiamondAura®, our extremely modern laboratory
must heat the rare mineral baddeleyite (ZrO2) to nearly 5,000 degrees F in
some very expensive equipment, which causes the mineral to become isometric.
A substantial number of other scientific laboratory procedures are then necessary
to finally produce the gorgeous simulated diamond known as DiamondAura®.
The finished product is clear in color, unlike most mined diamonds that contain
impurities and inclusions.
As with any jewelry, oils from the skin and dirt need to be removed
frequently. DiamondAura® can be cleaned with warm, soapy water and a soft
cosmetic brush (like the type used to apply eye shadow). An ultrasonic jewelry
cleaner may also be used and will not damage the stone. When using soaps
or detergents, the stone should be thoroughly wiped dry to prevent a film
from forming that will dull its brilliance.
• More Fire than a Mined Diamond
• Will Cut Glass
• High Refractive Index
• 8.5 Hardness on the Mohs scale
Diamond
The King of Gems needs no introduction. Diamonds are the most famous
and desirable jewels. With a 10 on the Mohs scale, diamond is the hardest
natural substance on earth. As the 6th century Indian text Ratnapariksa
says, “the diamond scratches all and is not scratched by any.” What is
most remarkable is that diamond is made of pure carbon, the same material
that makes up charcoal or pencil lead. It is the crystalline structure
that gives the gem its incredible strength. Most diamonds are formed in
the oldest nuclear portions of continents in rocks more than 1.5 billion
years old. A diamond is by far the oldest thing that most people will ever
own. Diamonds were first discovered in India, where their name in Sanskrit,
vajra, meant thunderbolt. Indian royals valued the stone for its brilliance
and rainbow dispersion, and believed those that carried one of the stones
would lead a charmed life. Diamonds did not become widely used in Europe
until the 13th century, and were reserved for the top echelon of society. King Louis IX of France passed a law that allowed only the king to wear diamonds.
Today, diamond engagement rings are universal symbols of love. The Romans
began the tradition of exchanging bands, which were placed on the
ring finger which was said to have a vein that lead directly to the heart.
Diamonds
entered the picture in the 15th century when Emperor Maximilian I
gave his bride, Mary, Duchess of Burgundy, a diamond wedding band, and the
tradition
has continued. In the 1870’s, major finds in South Africa allowed
more people than ever to purchase diamonds. The value of a diamond is based
on the Four C’s: cut, color, clarity, and carat. Diamonds should
be cut
in such a manner that will emphasize its brilliance and fire. Although
diamonds are usually thought of as completely colorless, they come
in almost every color, including blue, yellow, and even black. This range
of colors
is due to the chemical composition of the stones. Natural diamonds
are pure carbon, but may contain impurities, such as nitrogen, which creates yellow diamonds, or boron, which creates blue gems. The most valuable
diamonds are described as flawless, and have no inclusions that change
their color or affect their brilliance. Carat describes the size of a diamond.
One carat is equal to 200 milligrams.
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Edwardian
The period during the reign of Edward VII of England from 1901 – 1910.
The style actually began during the final years of Victoria, and continued
until shortly before World War. Jewelry was characterized by delicate filigree
in white gold and platinum, with diamonds and pearls predominating, and
colored stones used less frequently, producing a light, monochromatic look.
Delicate bows, swags, and garland effects were used in necklaces and brooches
Electroplated
A process in which one metal is coated with another metal using electricity.
In jewelry, inexpensive metals are frequently electroplated with
more expensive metals, like gold [gold plating], copper [electrocoppering],
rhodium [rhodanizing],
chromium [chromium plating], or silver [silver plating]. The thickness
of the metal coat varies. Electrogilded coating is the thinnest [less than
0.000007
inches thick]; gold - cased metals have a coating thicker that 0.000007
inches.
Engrave
Decorate metal using a graver's tools; embellishing metal or other
material with patterns using a stamping tool or drill. This was
a popular technique in mid - Victorian jewelry. The resulting depressions
were often
filled with colored enamel.
Enamel
Enamel is produced by fusing colored powdered glass to metal to
produce a vitreous or glass - like, decorative surface. Translucent
enamel with fancy engraving on the metal underneath was popular during
the Victorian
era.
European Cut
The style of diamond cutting popular from approximately 1890
to the 1930s. The European cut has a round girdle made possible
by the introduction
of the power bruiting machine.
Eyepin
A wire finding with a loop at one end. used for linking beads
or beaded links together
Emerald
They say geniuses pick green, and there is no more stunning green
than that of an emerald. From Cleopatra’s jewels, to the halls of Incan
palaces, emeralds have held a place in history. They represent life, joy,
wisdom, and even love, for the Romans dedicated the stone to the goddess
Venus. According to ancient medicine, the stone could provide clarity of
thought or even reveal a lover’s fidelity. The breath-taking, yet soothing
hue comes from the composition of the gem, which is a compound called beryllium
alumino silicate. This formula can contain chromium or vanadium to produce
the magnificent green shade. It is a relatively hard stone with a score
of 7 to 8 on the Mohs Scale. Color is the most important factor for an
emerald, and the stones are cut to show off the gem’s wonderful tone.
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F
Faceted
Cut with many facets or planes.
Faux
Faux is a French word used to describe something made to resemble
something else. The original French word means false, fake, imitation or
artificial.
Filigree
A technique used to produce fine intricate patterns in metal. Often
used for metal beads, clasps, and bead caps.
Findings
All types of fasteners, and construction components used in jewelry
making.
Florentine Finish
Finish has a brushed or striated appearance.
Foilback
A method of coating the back of a stone with silver, gold, or
colored foil. This enhances the brilliancy of the stone,
by reflecting back as much light as possible. It is commonly seen in costume
jewelry.
French Jet
French jet is black glass designed to imitate real jet. It
was frequently carved.
Freshwater Pearl
Explorers first came to the New World searching for a route to the riches of India, and troves of gold to supplement the treasures of Europe. Although the English and French never discovered the El Dorado of their dreams, they soon found that America had riches that were completely unexpected. The rivers of Ohio, Mississippi, and Tennessee were full of pearls, earning America the title of Land of the Pearls. The explorers began shipping the gems back to Europe in mass quantities satisfying the cravings of their monarchs. American freshwater pearls could be found in royal jewels across the continent. Today, China is the current leader in freshwater pearl production, although many pearls still come from the US. Freshwater pearls are just as valued as their saltwater cousins, consisting of the same organic material often possessing interesting shapes and varied colors.
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G
Gemstones
Include diamond, brilliant, beryl, emerald chalcedony, agate, heliotrope;
onyx, plasma; tourmaline, chrysolite; sapphire, ruby, synthetic ruby; spinel,
spinelle; oriental topaz; turquoise, zircon, cubic zirconia; jacinth, hyacinth,
carbuncle, amethyst; alexandrite, cat's eye, bloodstone, hematite, jasper,
moonstone, sunstone.
Genuine
It is common to see the following words when describing costume jewelry
amethyst, diamond, garnet, emerald, ruby, sapphire. These words should
not be interpreted to mean the precious stones with these names. The terms
are
used only to describe the color of the non - precious stones. If
the genuine stone is meant, it is usually indicated with the word genuine
in the description.
This general rule also applies to words for metals, such as gold,
silver, copper, and pewter. When used to describe costume jewelry, they
mean gold
- tone, pewter colored, etc.
German Silver
German silver is also known as nickel silver. It is an alloy consisting
of approx 60% copper, 20% nickel, 20% zinc, and sometimes about 5
%. There is no silver at all in German silver.
Green Amethyst
Also known as prasiolite, green amethyst is a relatively rare stone. Ranging from the palest sea foam to the boldest hunter green, it reflects some of nature’s most beautiful hues. Like all amethyst, it is strong and eye-catching.
Garnet- January
In Ancient Greece, the pomegranate was a gift of love and eternity.
This may not seem to be the most romantic of gifts, but this tradition
inspired the Greeks to name a truly beautiful gem. The name garnet comes
from the Greek granatum, meaning seed, as the stones are reminiscent of
the pomegranate seeds. While the fruit has fallen out of fashion as a token
of devotion, the stone has remained a popular symbol of love. Comprised
of silicate minerals, the stone is most often seen in a bold red that rivals
any ruby. Light not only reflects off of the gem, but seems to come from
within the stone due to its high refractive index. This attribute is most
famously recorded in the Bible, when Noah uses a garnet lantern to light
the ark. Reaching the peak of its popularity during the Victorian Age,
garnets are often found in antique settings reminiscent of this era. Many
of these fine stones originated in Bohemia, where mines have produced some
of the finest quality garnets. Bohemian settings reflect the garnet’s ancient roots, as the gems are arranged in a cluster that mimics the pomegranate.
Garnets are tradition gifts for departing lovers, ensuring a safe return.
Gold
Gold is the most prized of all metals. It has been a symbol of power
and divinity throughout history. The Incans believe it was the sweat of
the sun and its name in Latin, aurum, means glowing dawn. Gold was one
of the first metals used by man, for it was easily spotted gleaming in
riverbeds or in veins of rock. Gold objects dating from 4400 BC were found
in a Thracian archeological site in Bulgaria. Since that time gold has
been used in everything from jewelry to currency, from architecture to
even food. The Ancient Egyptians filled their tombs with gold ornaments,
and the Ancient Greeks would tell stories of incredible gold objects, such
as Jason’s golden fleece. The quest for gold was one of the most important
incentives for Europeans to explore the New World. During America’s Gilded
Age, gold was the ultimate symbol of wealth and success. The physical properties
of gold make it a particularly unique metal. As one of the few metals found
in nature in its pure or native state, it resists corrosion and is the only naturally yellow metal. It is highly reflective, an excellent conductor,
and incredibly dense. Both ductile and malleable, a single ounce of gold
can be drawn into a wire 50 miles long, or beaten into a sheet 96.9 square
feet. About 78% of gold yearly is used in jewelry and is categorized based
on its purity or karat. A karat is 1/24 part by weight; 24 karat gold is
completely pure. As gold is a very soft metal, most gold used in jewelry
is less than 24 karats. The color of gold can be changed based on the metals
with which it is alloyed. The addition of copper creates rose gold, while
white gold contains nickel or palladium, purple gold includes aluminum,
and blue gold includes indium.
Gold Filled
Abbreviated g.f. = lower in gold content than 10 KT, usually 1/20 or
1/12 KT.In this technique a sheet of gold is mechanically applied to the
surface. Victorian pieces are likely to be unmarked, but later pieces are
marked with the fineness of the gold layer, and the part by weight of the
gold. An older unmarked gold piece may often be identified by wear through
to base metal. Watch for a darker, brassy colored material on the wear
spots.
Goldplate
A layer of gold applied to base metal, usually by electroplating. This
is usually a very thin layer, only a few microns, which is likely to
wear much more quickly than gold - filled.
Gold Tone
Gold colored or electro - plated, not gold as in measurable in karats.
Gold Washed
Gold washed" describes products that have an extremely thin electroplating of gold [less
than .175 microns thick]. This will wear away more quickly than gold plate,
gold - filled, or gold electroplate
Gunmetal
A metal alloy that is composed of 90 percent copper and 10 percent
tin
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H
Hallmark
An official mark made in metal that indicates the fineness of the metal
and the manufacturer's mark. For example, a hallmark of 925 indicates 925
parts of gold per 1000 weight. Other hallmarks indicate the maker of the
piece and sometimes the year of manufacture.
Herkimer
Herkimer diamonds are clear, lustrous, doubly terminated crystals
of quartz they are not true diamonds. These brilliant stones have a hardness
of 7.
Hearts and Arrows Ideal Cut
The Hearts and Arrows Ideal Cut is a special round cut that enhances
the natural brilliance of diamonds. When observed through the top, or
crown, of the diamond, the viewer can see eight arrow-shaped cuts.
Through the bottom,
or pavilion, one can see eight heart-shaped cuts. Very few diamond cutters
are willing to take the time or possess the necessary skill to cut an
H&A diamond. Only one in every million diamond can be called a true Hearts and
Arrows. The only standard stricter than H&A is H&A Ideal Cut. This cut captures the brilliance and fire of each of the diamond’s
58 facets, making it sparkle in virtually every lighting condition. One must
use a special viewer to see the H&A pattern, but the superior brilliance is visible to the naked eye. A Hearts
and Arrows Ideal Cut diamond is certainly the crown jewel of any gem
collection.
Inlay
piece of material often stone or glass that is partially embedded in
another A material usually metal such that the two materials make
a level surface.
Intaglio
A design carved down into a gemstone. Some of the most commonly found
Victorian intaglios are carved in Carnelian, an orange - brown variety
of quartz. Intaglio is a method of decoration in which a design is cut into
the surface. Signet rings are frequently decorated with intaglio, as
are
seals.
Iridescent
An iridescent object displays many lustrous, changing colors. Iridescence
is caused by the reflection of light from the jewel.
Iridium
A metal and member of the platinum family, it is often alloyed with
platinum to improve workability, thus you will find pieces marked something
like "90% Plat. 10% Irrid" to indicate that the alloy is 90 % platinum and 10% iridium.
Irradiated Diamonds
Irradiated diamonds are diamonds that have been exposed to radiation.
This permanently changes the diamond's color. The irradiated stones
take on a greenish or an aquamarine hue. Irradiations of diamonds
was first done
in 1904 by Sir William Crookes.
Irradiation
The act of being exposed to radiation. Many stones are irradiated
in order to enhance their color. Being irradiated changes the crystal
structure of the mineral by moving electrons. Irradiation techniques
bombard the crystal
with high - energy radiation producing a stone with very little
radioactivity and a change of color.
Iolite
The Vikings were master mariners. Marauding throughout Europe, they
were the scourge of the Dark Ages. Yet without any modern technology like
GPS, how did they find their way far out at sea? They brought sunglasses;
well sort of. Using thin lenses of the gem iolite, they were able to locate
the sun and determine their direction. The Vikings were able to use iolite
due to its pleochrosim. This property causes the gem to be different colors
depending on the direction from which it is viewed, from rich violet, colorless,
and honey yellow. Iolite gets its name from the Greek word ios, meaning
violet. While a nice pair of iolite shades might break the bank, iolite
jewelry is both affordable and beautiful.
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Japanned
A Japanned finish in jewelry is when metal is finished with a lustrous,
black lacquer.
Jet
Jet is also known as agate. It is a form of fossilized coal that
became popular for mourning jewelry after Queen Victoria’s husband, Albert
died
in 1861. Produced mainly in Whitby England. It is hard, lightweight
lustrous black and it is frequently cabochon cut.
Jump Ring
A small wire ring, not soldered shut, used to link elements of jewelry.
Jewel Bearing
Watchmakers are constantly refining their craft in order to create
the most accurate and efficient movements. One technique that they employ
involves the use of jewel bearings. This mechanism involves the rotation
of a metal spindle in a jewel-lined pivot hole. As the spindle turns, it
precesses in the hole cut through the gem. These bearings, which were patented
in 1704 in England by Nicolas Fatio de Duillier and Peter and Jacob Debaufre,
have many advantages. They are light and highly accurate due to the temperature
stability, high hardness, and low friction of the jewel. Initially, sapphire,
ruby, and garnet were used in these bearings, but with the invention of
synthetic stones, most jewel bearings today use synthetic sapphire. Many
Stauer watches employ jewel bearings.
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K
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Lapidary
Cutting, shaping, polishing and creating jewelry from precious and
semi - precious stones.
Lavalier
A pendant with a dangling stone that hangs from a necklace. Lavaliers
were named for the infamous Duchess Louise de La Valliere a French
woman who was a mistress of the French King Louis, dating 1644 – 1710
Living Jewelry
Jewelry materials derived from living organisms: pearl, cultured
pearl, fresh - water pearl; mother of pearl; coral.
Lucite
Lucite is a clear strong plastic that can be molded or carved.
It became popular in the 1940s.
Luster
Stones sparkle or sheen. The way it reflects light. The luster
depends on the nature of the stone's surface reflectivity
Lab Created Gemstones
The lab created rubies, sapphires, and emeralds you will find at Stauer
have the same chemical and physical properties as their natural counterparts.
In the lab, scientists subject corundum, which makes up natural rubies
and sapphires, and beryl, which makes up natural emerald, to the intense
pressure and heat which creates gemstones in nature. The chief difference
between natural stones and these lab created gems is that those made in
the lab have far fewer inclusions or imperfections than natural jewels.
As a result, they have superior color and beauty than the flawed stones
made by nature. And of course, they can be yours for a far less daunting
price.
Lapis lazuli
In the inhospitable regions of northern Afghanistan, buried in the
limestone of the Kokcha River Valley is the “stone of Lāzhvard.” Ancient
Sumerians used this stone to create statuettes for their tombs. According
to the Egyptian Book of the Dead, an amulet of this stone carved in the
shape of an eye would give its owner untold power. Lapis lazuli is a deep
blue stone, not a mineral, that is composed of primarily lazurite, or (Na,Ca)8(AlSiO4)6(S,SO4,Cl)1-2.
The most prized stones also include golden flecks of pyrite that enhance
the sparkle of the gem. Apart from being used in jewelry, Renaissance painters
ground the stone into a powder to create a valuable pigment known as ultramarine.
Today, lapis lazuli is a popular gem among all jewelry collectors.
Larimar
Walking along a beach in 1974, two men came across a beautiful light
blue stone. Thinking that it had come from the ocean, the called it a sea
stone. One of the men, Miguel Méndez, named the stone larimar, after his
daughter Larissa and mar, the Spanish word for sea. News of this stone
quickly spread. Some believed that it was evidence of the lost civilization
that sank below the ocean and called it the Atlantis Stone. In fact, larimar,
which is a form of pectolite containing cobalt, was originally discovered
by Father Miguel Fuertes Loren in the early 1900’s. His find went unnoted,
and sixty years passed before the world knew of its existence. Larimar,
which is one of the rarest stones on earth, is only mined in the Barahina
province of the Dominican Republic. It is prized for its rich sea blue
color and is often paired with silver to make necklaces, earrings, and
bracelets.
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M
Mabe or Mobe
A half sphere or domed stone, usually a fake pearl.
Marquise
An oval stone which is pointed at both ends, a stone cut in a boat
shape, pointed at both ends, with rounded sides
Matinee Length
A single strand that is from 22 to 23 inches (56 to 58 cm) long.
Melee
A melee is a small diamond, under .20 carat.
Memory Wire
A tough, stiff wire that retains its
Mexican Diamond
A misleading term for rock crystal, and not a diamond at all.
Micromosai
Micromosaics are pictures or decorations that are made out of extremely
small pieces of stone, glass or other materials
Millefiori
Means "thousand flowers" in Italian. A method of creating glass or clay beads, with intricate patterns
using canes.
Mine Cut
A style of diamond cutting popular before 1890 or so, it features
a cushion shaped outline, rather than the round outline of the
modern cut.
MM
Millimeters. A Metric measurement used for Pearls and; Gemstones
Molded Cameo
Cameos that are made by the molding process and not by carving
the material, usually made from plastic, glass, or porcelain
that is formed in a mold. Often, two colors of material are used,
one for the relief pattern
and another for the background
Montana Ruby
Is actually a pyrope garnet and not a ruby at all.
MOP
Mother of Pearl
Mourning Jewelry
A type of jewelry worn when one is mourning the loss of a loved
one. It is often black, subdued jewelry often made of
jet or black glass and metal with a Japanned finish or jewelry that
commemorates the
dead like
hair jewelry or cameos.
Mystic Fire
Also called mystic topaz or rainbow topaz which is topaz
that has been color enhanced by coating it with a fine
layer of metal atoms. This stone has red, green, violet,
and blue
streaks
Murano Glass
Ask anyone where the finest glass in the world is made, and they
will tell you Venice. Ask any Venetian where the finest glass
in the world is made,
and they will tell you Murano. Fearing that the fires from the
glassmaking workshops would sweep through the wooden city and reduce
it to rubble,
the leaders of Venice required that all of the glass studios
move to the nearby
island of Murano. Not only was the city now more safe from fire,
but Venetian officials could better control the valuable industry
with all
the artisans
on a single island. In such close quarters, the glassmakers became
increasingly competitive, honing their skills and perfecting
their art. As the years went
by, new techniques emerged for better capturing the beauty of the
glass. Using styles such as avventuria, where metallic flecks
are added to the
glass, millefiori
which gives the effect of a “thousand flowers” housed in the glass,
and sommerso, a technique where many layers are dipped in molten glass,
the Murano glassmakers
became the most famous in the world. The industry began to suffer
as artisans, who were forbidden to leave the city, left Venice
to found studios throughout Europe.
However, glassmaking in Murano made a come back as prominent Italians
went to great
lengths to preserve the valuable tradition. Used in jewelry, sculpture,
and even chandeliers and found in ever color, shape, and style
imaginable, Murano
glass rivals the finest gemstones in beauty.
Mechanical or Manual Movement
In 1524, Peter Henlein created the first spring-powered pocket watch.
For the next 400 years, almost all watches operated on the same principal.
Mechanical watches store energy in a wound mainspring. A gear train transfers
this energy to a balance wheel that oscillates at a constant rate, creating
a ticking sound. The gear train also adds up the swings of the wheel to
determine the units of time. An escapement keeps the balance wheel vibrating
and allows the gears to move a set amount each swing of the wheel. The
face or dial of the watch allows the time to be read by the wearer. With
a single winding, a mechanical watch can run anywhere from 40 hours to
10 days, depending on the age and complexity of the movement.
Moon Phase Dial
A watch that contains a rotating dial that displays the phase of the
moon
Navette
An oval stone which is pointed at both ends.
Nickel silver
A white metal mixture of copper, zinc, and nickel which contains
no silver. Also known as German Silver. Consists of approx 60% copper,
20% nickel, 20%
zinc, and 5%
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Oiling
A process of applying mineral oil to a stone in order to enhance it
and mask inclusions, make them more transparent, and darken their color.
Emeralds are frequently oiled to mask their many inclusions.
Opal Triplet
An opal triplet is a manufactured stone that is composed of three
thin layers that are glued together. A thin layer of opal is sandwiched
between
a layer of clear quartz and a layer of either obsidian or ironstone.
Opaque
Blocking the passage of light.
Opal
Louis Leakey, the famed anthropologist who discovered the Australopithecus,
Lucy, came across an interesting find in a cave in Kenya in 1939. Among
the remains of a prehistoric dwelling, he found opal ornaments that dated
to 4000
B.C. This gem has fascinated people for over 6000 years. Its name comes
from the Greek opallios, or “color change,” and the Sanskrit upala, or
precious stone. The Romans considered it a queen of gems. Pliny the Elder
praised
it
as possessing the best attributes of all the world’s gems, and Mark Antony
once banished a senator for not selling him one of the beautiful stones.
In the Middle Ages, opals were believed to promote good eyesight and
help prevent blonde hair from losing its color. Opals have been given as
royal gifts
throughout
the ages. Napoleon gave his Empress Josephine an opal which he called
the “Burning of Troy.” Queen Victoria loved to give opals as gifts to
new brides, despite
the superstition of the age that opals were bad luck. This belief came
from the novel Anne of Geuerstein by Sir Walter Scott. In the book, Lady Hermoine is killed when a
drop of holy water lands on her opal. Scott’s novel hurt the opal industry
for some time. In 1877, a major find in Australia popularized opal once
again and introduced new shades of the lovely gem. The opal’s ability
to reflect every color of the rainbow comes from its structure, which is composed
of many
small spheres of silica gel. Opals range in shades from dark black to
brilliant white.
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Parure
A jewelry set consisting of three or more matching pieces. Three of
either earrings, bracelet, and necklace, or pin/brooch. In Victorian times,
a complete parure consisted of two matching bracelets, necklace, earrings
and a brooch.
Paste
A term for imitation gemstones. Fine jewelry was often imitated in
finely made copies to protect the wearer from theft, and these were
referred to as paste. Paste is glass that is cut and faceted to imitate gemstones.
Patina
Patina is the change to the jewelry surface resulting from natural
aging.
Pave
Very tightly set stones, as in a pavement; a gem setting technique
in which the stones are set low and very closely spaced, so that the
surface appears to be paved with gemstones. In better pieces, claw
settings are used;
in less expensive pieces, the stones are simple glued in.
Pewter
Pewter items are described and marked as such if they contain at least
90% tin. Also, a somewhat dull silver - colored alloy of tin, antimony,
and copper.
Plating
See Electroplating
Plique - a - jour
A form of cloisonné in which the enamel in the cells has no backing,
producing a translucent effect.
Pot metal
Pot metal is a term used to cover many, many different mixtures which
do contain precious metals
Princess Length
A princess length necklace is 18" long.
Pronged
Stones set with individual prongs holding them in place.
PT or Plat
Platinum is usually marked one of these ways in the United States
Peridot
Robert Frost once wrote, “Nature’s first green is gold, her hardest hue
to hold.” Frost believed “nothing gold can stay,” but the wonderful shade of
peridot is everlasting. Although the stone’s name comes from the word peritot,
meaning gold, the gem is a beautiful, sparkling green. Peridot has been valued
for centuries. From Cleopatra, who adorned her exquisite jewelry with the stone,
to adventurous pirates, who believed the gem could protect their golden hordes.
The stone was originally mined on the island of Topazo in the Red Sea and transported
to Egypt, were it was considered the “gem of the sun.” The soothing color arises
from the metal within the magnesium iron silicate which makes up the gem. It
is often found in volcanic areas, having exploded out of the earth with magma
and lava. Peridot can also be found in large quantities in meteorites which
hit the earth, making them the little green jewels from outer space.
Pearl
Glow from within light reflected off surface and interior
There is nothing more unique than a pearl. Known as the Queen of Gems,
pearls were probably first discovered in the Persian Gulf and came to be
some of the most valuable objects in history. Ranging in color from white
to black, lavender to gold, they have been prized for centuries by men and
women alike, from Elizabeth I to Elizabeth Taylor. Many cultures considered
pearls to be pieces of the divine. Both the Hindu and Muslim religions value
pearls as sacred object which symbolize purity natural perfection. According
to Chinese legend, pearls were created and protected by dragons, and the
Taoist lead Lao Tzu kept an enormous pearl in his home to give his family
luck and good fortune. Peoples of the Mediterranean believed that pearls
were created when rainbows met the earth. The Romans were perhaps the most
pearl crazed, using the gems for anything from jewelry to upholstery. The
crazed Emperor Caligula was rumored to have given his horse a necklace of
pearls after he mad the animal Consul of Rome. In the story of Antony and Cleopatra, the Egyptian queen believed that if she threw the
most sumptuous party in history, she could convince the Roman that her country
was far too wealthy to invade. As the Romans sat down to eat, Cleopatra promptly
crushed a pearl on her empty plate and ate the gem. Antony was satisfied
and did not attack Egypt. As some of the world’s rarest objects, pearls form
in only one of every ten thousand to several million mollusks capable of
forming the gem. Various shapes also occur in nature and are identified by
their structure. Names include button, seed, round, rice, and drop pearls.
Any mollusk can form a pearl, but most prized pearls come from certain species
of saltwater oysters and freshwater clams. Once a particle enters an oyster,
the animal begins to create the pearl. The oyster coats the irritant with
aragonite and conchiolin, which are collectively called nacre. This nacre
creates the lustrous sheen and ethereal glow that is the trademark of the
lovely gem.
Freshwater Pearl
Explorers first came to the New World searching for a route to the
riches of India, and troves of gold to supplement the treasures of Europe.
Although the English and French never discovered the El Dorado of their
dreams, they soon found that America had riches that were completely unexpected.
The rivers of Ohio, Mississippi, and Tennessee were full of pearls, earning
America the title of Land of the Pearls. The explorers began shipping the
gems back to Europe in mass quantities satisfying the cravings of their
monarchs. American freshwater pearls could be found in royal jewels across
the continent. Today, China is the current leader in freshwater pearl production,
although many pearls still come from the US. Freshwater pearls are just
as valued as their saltwater cousins, consisting of the same organic material
often possessing interesting shapes and varied colors.
South Sea Pearls
Among some of the world’s largest pearls, the South Sea Pearl can be
found in the waters between northern Australia and southern China.
In the clean, clear waters of this area lives the large Pinctada maxima,
one of
the largest oysters on earth. The size of the animal and the purity
of its natural environment allow it to create some of the most beautiful
and largest
pearls known to man. Usually found in white, silver, and golden tones,
this satiny gem is very rare and extremely valuable.
Cultured Pearl vs. Natural Pearls
Culture pearls are identical to natural pearls in physical composition
and appearance. The only difference between the two types is that a
natural pearl forms when a particle enters the mollusk by chance, and
a cultured pearl forms when the particle is placed in the shell by man. Cultured
pearls
are not imitation pearls because they are made of nacre. One can distinguish
a true pearl from an imitation by rubbing the object against one’s
teeth. Pearls feel gritty, whereas imitations will be smooth. Due to
the
rarity
and price of natural pearls, the majority of pearls on the market these
days are cultured. The modern process of culturing was created by three
Japanese men in the early 1900’s. Tokichi Nishikawa and Tatsuhei Mise simultaneously
discovered the method of inserting a particle into the shell, but it
was
Kokichi Mikimoto who truly founded the industry by focusing on creating
truly round pearls. The industry has spread to many nations, including
China
and
Australia and now includes freshwater as well as saltwater pearls.
Mother-of-pearl and Abalone
The silky iridescence of pearls is attributed to the layers of nacre
on the surface of the gem. This nacre comes from the interior of the mollusk
shell. This material, also known as mother-of-pearl, is often used in jewelry.
In fact, Japanese divers would often discard pearls in favor of the beautiful
interior coating of the shells they collected. Polynesian children would
use pearls as marbles while their parents adorned themselves with the shells.
Today, mother-of-pearl has a wide variety of uses as it can be found in
all sorts of shapes, designs, and coatings. Abalone, which is composed
of the same material as mother-of-pearl, comes from a particular sea snail
known as an abalone.
Power Reserve
A power reserve indicator is a feature of certain mechanical or automatic
watches that displays the amount of tension, and therefore energy, remaining
in the mainspring.
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Quartz Movement
As a piezoelectric material, quartz, or silicon dioxide, conducts a
constant voltage or pulse when compressed. Quartz movement watches use
this property to accurately keep time. A battery transmits energy to the
quartz, which then creates a highly accurate, steady pulse. The pulse passes
through a stepping motor that converts the electrical energy of the battery
to mechanical energy that drives the watch mechanism. The first quartz
clock was invented in 1927 at Bell Telephone Laboratories, and quartz watches
gained popularity in the 1970’s. Quartz movements are generally more accurate
and less expensive than mechanical movements.
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R
Reconstructed Stone
A stone that is made from pieces of smaller stones or crystals. Reconstructed
stones often have telltale air bubbles.
Regard
The Victorians loved romantic symbols, and rings or brooches set
with a Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and a Diamond so
that the first letter of each gemstone spelled out
A glass stone, facetted to imitate a diamond. In German, it is
called Strass, after the man who popularized it.
Rhodium
A metal that is part of the platinum family.
Rhodium Plating
A thin plating of rhodium applied over either sterling or other
alloy to give a bright, shiny, long lasting silver - colored
finish to a piece.
Retro
A recent designation for the period in the forties when large
scale, stylized geometric forms were the rage. Pink gold,
set with colored
stones, sometimes in floral forms was common.
Rocaille
Jewelry whose design is based on sea life, sea shells, or
rocks.
Rolled Gold
A very thin sheet of gold that is laminated to a lesser
metal usually brass. The two layers of metal are heated
under pressure
to fuse
them together. The sheet is them rolled into a very thin
sheet and then used to make jewelry.
Rope
A rope is a string of pearls that is over 40 inches long.
Russian Gold Finish
A Russian gold finish is a matte, antique - look finish.
Miriam Haskell jewelry often has a Russian gold plated
finish
Ruby
In the country of Burma stretches the Mogok Stone Tract in the legendary
Valley of Rubies. According to legend, the first ruby, the center
of earth’s fire and blood, was discovered here by an enormous eagle,
long before men
came to the valley. The ruby, known by the Hindus as rajnapura,
or “King of Gems,” was treasured as the most valuable object by ancient
monarchs.
When a stone was found, the king would send out a delegation to
welcome the gem to the kingdom. Rubies spread through the halls of royals
from
India to England, where a ruby adorns the king’s coronation ring.
Today, rubies are symbols of passion and power. The stone’s color is
its most
important attribute. Rubies are always red, as a result of traces
of chrome in aluminum oxide. If the gem is not absolutely red, it is
considered a
sapphire. Like sapphires, rubies are composed of the mineral corundum,
which is extremely hard, second only to diamonds. The most prized
rubies let off an almost fluorescent glow and can appear silky or velvety
in hue. This king of gems is the best gift for the ruler of your heart.
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S
Safety Catch
Prior to 1900 or so, brooches had a simple "C" catch with no locking mechanism, and the pin often extended out beyond the "C" far enough to weave back into clothing for security. At the turn of the century
several "safety catches" were invented and came into common used for better jewelry, so a piece that
exhibits a safety catch was made in the twentieth century
Satin Finish
A finish between a matte finish and a brilliant one.
Sautoir
A long rope style necklace, often with a tassel or pendant at the
end, these were popularized in the Edwardian era. It is also known as a
rope, being much longer r than opera - length, often with a pendant
at the
end.
Scatter Pins
Small pins that are worn together in small groups.
Seed Pearl
Refers to a very small round pearl or a very small imitation pearl.
Shank
The part of a ring that encircles the finger.
Signed
When a Manufacturers or Designers name or identifying mark is etched,
carved, or stamped into the Jewelry it is called signed
Signet Ring
Used as a means of identification for relatively important
people as it was engraved with a symbol identifying a particular
person.
Silver Tone
Silver plated or coated, not sterling silver.
Slide Bracelet
A type of modern - day charm bracelet made from stringing
Victorian era watch fob charms together on a double
chain where the charms
can slide along the chains.
Snake Chain
Also called a Brazilian chain is a metal chain made
up of a series of small, linked cups
Souvenir Jewelry
Made for tourists as a remembrance of their trip.
Split Ring
Small base metal finding resembling a key - ring.
Star Setting
A setting in which a gem is set within an engraved
star; the gem is secured by a small grain of
metal soldered to the base of each ray of the star. Popular
in the
1890s.
Striations
Grooves, lines and scratches found naturally
in some minerals.
Synthetic Stone
Made in laboratories; these stones generally
lack imperfections. It is very difficult
to distinguish a synthetic stone
Sterling Silver
925 parts silver, legal standard.
Sapphire
In ancient times, certain cultures believed that the Earth was an enormous
blue gemstone in which the continents were imbedded. Although this notion
was eventually discarded, people still valued the radiant mineral which
the Hebrews
called Sapir. However, the ancients were not mistaken in their description
of the beautiful sapphire. Some of the most valued stones are indeed
as blue as the deepest oceans. The stone, which is in fact aluminum
oxide or corundum,
can be found in every color of the spectrum. Certain trace elements within
the pure compound produce various hues. The vivid blue colors are usually
products of titanium oxide or iron. It is one of the hardest stones,
scoring a 9 on
the Mohs Scale, second only to diamond. Throughout history, sapphires
have been prized by all who have looked upon them. The empires of Southeast
Asia
have stocked their treasure troves for centuries with the stones from
Sri Lanka, the “Jewel Box of the Indian Ocean.” It is said that King
Solomon once wooed
the Queen of Sheba with these Ceylon Sapphires. More recently, sapphires have graced royal collections,
including the 18 carat engagement ring of Princess Diana. Though the
world may not be a sapphire imbedded with earth, perhaps you can find
a piece of
jewelry imbedded with sapphires that will mean the world to you.
South Sea Pearls
Among some of the world’s largest pearls, the South Sea Pearl can be found in the waters between northern Australia and southern China. In the clean, clear waters of this area lives the large Pinctada maxima, one of the largest oysters on earth. The size of the animal and the purity of its natural environment allow it to create some of the most beautiful and largest pearls known to man. Usually found in white, silver, and golden tones, this satiny gem is very rare and extremely valuable.
Spinel
Among the English Crown Jewels are two enormous rubies that have been
passed down for generations. The Timur Ruby hangs from a chain of gold
and is inscribed with the names of sultans. The Black Prince’s Ruby, which
was carried into battle by Henry VIII, now sits as the centerpiece for
the royal crown. However, it appears that Mother Nature duped the kings
and queens of old. Both of these so-called rubies are in fact spinels.
Spinels are stones found in Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Tajikistan,
and are also known as Balas rubies for their tendency to resemble the red
stone. In fact, fine spinels are rarer than rubies, and come in many beautiful
colors, including red, orange-pink, and cobalt blue. The gem, which follows
the general formula A2+B3+2O2-4, has a hardness of 8 on the Moh’s scale
and is ideal for all sorts of jewelry. Just ask Queen Elizabeth.
Silver
As one of the most desirable metals, silver has been prized since ancient
times. We have used silver for decoration, currency, and even medicine.
Silver compounds have a toxic effect on some bacteria. Hippocrates, the
father of modern medicine, noted these healing effects and encouraged his
patients to use silver. Wealthy Romans often fed their babies with silver
utensils, hence the expression, “born with a silver spoon in one’s mouth.”
As an incredibly shiny and reflective metal, silver is ideal for jewelry.
The Romans called it argentum, or white shining, for it is the whitest
of natural metals. It is both highly ductile and malleable, and harder
than gold, although much more prevalent. Sterling silver, which is often
used in jewelry, is composed of 7.5% copper and 92.5 % silver.
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T
Taxco
Taxco is a town in the State of Guerrero in Mexico, that is famous
for its silver jewelry production. Early Taxco jewelry is highly collectable.
Pieces dating 1979 or later are distinguished by a registration mark of two
letters followed by a series of numbers
Tiffany Setting
The high pronged setting most common today for large stones such as
a diamond solitaire; this setting was introduced by Tiffany & Co. in 1886.
Torsade
A necklace made of many strands that are twisted together
Tortoise Shell
A popular material for 19th century jewelry. Tortoise shell is banned
and no longer used, however there are very close plastic imitations
of tortoiseshell.
Translucent
Translucent materials allow light to pass through them, but the
light is diffused (scattered). Some translucent stones include
moonstones, opals, and carnelian. Lucite and other plastics can also be
translucent
Transparent
Transparent materials allow light to pass through them without
scattering the light. Some translucent stones include diamond,
zircon, emerald,
rock crystal, and ruby. Plastics like Lucite can also be transparent.
In the confetti
Lucite bangle above, the glitter within the Lucite is visible
.
Trembler
A piece of jewelry that has a part or parts set on a spring.
The spring set parts move as the wearer of the jewelry moves.
Triplet
A manufactured stone that is made by sandwiching three thin
layers of stones together. For example, an opal triplet
had a top, protective
layer of clear quartz, a thin middle layer of opal, and
a base layer of dark, color
- enhancing stone
Tanzanite
In 1967, Massai tribesmen discovered a beautiful gem on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro. Little did they know, they had stumbled upon tanzanite, a stone which is a thousand times rarer than diamond. According to African legend, in a violent storm in the foothills around Kilimanjaro, a bolt of lightning struck the earth, setting the ground ablaze, and forming this breathtaking stone which resembles lightning in both its blue-violet color and incredible intensity. The truth behind tanzanite’s formation is equally amazing. According to geologists, the combination of zoisite and vanadium in the earth almost 600 million years ago led to the creation of this “geological phenomenon.” It is only found in this secluded region of Africa and deposits are depleting. Within the next few years, the stone will be gone. Like a bolt of lightning, tanzanite hit the market but soon will vanish.
Turquoise- December
Nearly every culture that has encountered turquoise has considered
it lucky. It was first used around 5500 BCE in Egypt, adorning the palaces
of kings and the tombs of pharaohs. Tibetans once carried the stones with
them everywhere to protect them and give them good fortune. The Aztecs
and American Indians associated the stones with their gods and used them
for jewelry and artwork. Turquoise did not become popular in Europe until
the Renaissance, but mentions of the stone have been found in the works
of influential Europeans, from Aristotle and Pliny to Marco Polo. The stone
did not gain its modern name until it reached Europe, where it was bestowed
with the French word for Turkish due to its eastern origins. These stones
most likely originated in Persia, whose mines are famous for some of the
world’s most beautiful turquoise. Stones vary in color from sky blue to
yellowish, with the bold blue green hues being the most valued and recognizable.
Chemically, turquoise is composed of hydrated copper and aluminum phosphate. Many stones also contain a “spider web” effect of black which is typical
of American stones. But no matter where the stone comes from, this lucky
gem is the perfect gift for a lucky lady.
Tourbillon
In the 18th century, gentlemen carried pocket watches with them in
order to tell time. However, it was generally accepted that these watches
were less accurate than their stationary counterparts. Many believed that
gravity was the culprit. As the theory went, pocket watches were designed
with their movements placed perpendicular to the face. When placed in one’s
pocket, the movement was oriented parallel to the ground, and gravity forced
the parts downward, causing inaccuracy. In 1795, a French watchmaker named
Abraham-Louis Breguet came up with a solution to counteract this problem.
His new tourbillon, or “whirlwind,” movement rotated the entire escapement
so as to average out the effect of gravity on all parts of the movement.
Different tourbillon movements turned at different rate, but they were
eventually standardized at one rotation per minute. It is unclear whether
the 18th century theory was correct, but tourbillons have persisted and
become an integral part of any watch aficionado’s collection.
Tourmaline
The tourmaline is a stone of many colors. In fact, its name comes from
the Sinhalese word turamali meaning multicolored stone. A legend says that,
as the stone ascended to earth, it passed through a rainbow that formed
its vibrant hues. It is rare to find a crystal of single color. Tourmaline,
which is composed of aluminum boron silicate, is found in colors ranging
from deep red to shining yellow. Perhaps its most whimsical shade is the
watermelon tourmaline, which is colored light green and pink. Apart from
being beautiful, tourmaline has a unique scientific property. When heated
and cooled, the gem becomes electrified. The Dutch, who first brought this
gem to Europe from Sri Lanka, used this property to electrically draw ash
out of their household pipes. Hence tourmaline’s Dutch nickname, aschentrekker.
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Vermeil
Silver with gold plating.
Victorian
The designation given to the period from approximately 1837 when
Victoria became Queen of England until 1901 when she died. This long period
is divided
into early (approx. 1840 - 1860), mid [approx. 1860 -1880] and late
[approx. 1880 – 1900] since it covers a number of distinctive design trends
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